From Barbados to Saint Croix E-mail
Written by Joy Collins - SV Amistad - Deckhand   
Wednesday, 07 May 2008

We finally arrived in Barbados after 18 days across the Atlantic. We anchored for a week off of Port Saint Charles, an exclusive part of the island's west end. We looked longingly at sandy beaches, palm trees and people enjoying banana boat rides as we made Amistad look beautiful in preparation for opening to the public. One night I waited on shore for the ship's laundry to return. The heat of the day cooled slightly as darkness came. The thick sound of tropical frogs peeping in the lush flora was magical. A warm rain came and I found shelter under a palm tree. I had barely placed two feet on Barbados and I was in love.

Once we officially arrived in Barbados we were welcomed by amazing drumming and dancing performances and various government officials. Carla and I became friends with a man named Solly who drove us all around the island, took us to a polo match, and brought us to some of the most beautiful beaches on the island. He told us that most Bajan's enjoy their island and love to show it off. We enjoyed banana daiquiris and flying fish sandwiches (the same creatures that flew onto our deck at night across the Atlantic now pleased our pallet as they decorated out plate). We also had dolphin fingers (actually Dorado or Mahi Mahi, not dolphin except in local name, but the nicest fish I have ever eaten, served with a lime and lovely dipping sauce). Solly, his wife and daughter had us over for a barbeque one night, and their hospitality was mind blowing. My friend Rodney later told me that locals are often denied entrance to some of the hotels on the island. Two worlds of this paradise.

One of the highlights of the trip was clearing brush at the Slave Burial Grounds of Newton Plantation. It was a gorgeous field surrounded by sugar cane. What stories, what pain are buried under the growth of sugar cane and the weight of the beauty of the land?

After our work we sucked on freshly cut cane.

Toward the end of the trip we were invited to brunch by a lovely family: Ron, Serena and Liam. They had toured the ship and wanted to offer thanks to the crew, as well as offer us a treat before we set off to sea. The brunch was at the Hilton hotel, one of the most popular brunch spots on the island. I had the most amazing omelet of my life accompanied by a delicious hot pepper sauce. A few nights later Ron and Serena had us over to their house for a barbeque. They have the most beautiful, open air dream house I have ever seen. Their hospitality was amazing and much appreciated. Their generosity was all the sweeter because they have clearly been blessed in life, but choose to remember to bless others with kindness as well.

We ended our time in Barbados again anchored off of Port Saint Charles. We prepared to leave, and sadly had to leave Sam, one of our shipmates, behind until he could rejoin us in the States after working out a visa issue. We were joined by new crew in Barbados: Tiny (a ball of positive energy), Haley (Nina's sister and a former student from the Fall trip whom I hadn't yet had a chance to sail with) and Michael (who was one of our most fabulous students as we sailed across the Atlantic this summer, whom I am so excited to sail with again). We set off to Saint Croix. I began working as third mate and led C watch through our duties. It has been a great learning experience being a watch officer. The lessons at sea never end.

After five days sailing we ended up in Saint Croix. We anchored for the first two nights and then docked in Christiansted Harbor. Eliza's friend Phillipa had some of us to her lovely home for an evening of drinks, cheese, crackers and soft seats. We also had a chance to enjoy the night life and eat ice cream ashore (a treat when on a hot boat. I hadn't had ice cream in at least three months. I rarely think about it while living on land, but at sea . . .). A few of us went scuba diving while in Saint Croix. It was the first time in my life and it was amazing. The dive shop owners (Derrick and
Anna) were fantastic. I found it challenging at first, particularly getting used to breathing under water and getting my ears to pop, but once under water I was mesmerized by the colors and peace of the seen. We dove two days in a row and saw barracudas, moray eels and two sea turtles.  Our second day was a gift from nice people who run a great bar called Coconuts near the dive shop - the kindness on this trip just continues.

We are now back at sea. We apparently had a beautiful day sail from Saint Croix to Saint Thomas, but I was sick in my bunk most of the day. My ears have not popped after diving and I am now suffering from some sort of terrible sinus blockage. Up until today I have mostly divided my time between standing watch and then taking medicine and going off to bed.

On C watch we have Haley, Johnny, Taylor and Seco. Taylor joined us in Saint Croix. Amistad is his second boat and it is great to watch him learn and share in his excitement during his first overnight transit. It is also a great reflection for me on how much I have learned over the years as I take on new responsibilities and teach new crew members. Haley is also an amazing watch mate. She is good at what she does and always willing to help with a positive, supportive attitude. I met Nina and Haley briefly one day two years ago in Shelburne, Nova Scotia as we toured the Black Loyalist Museum. It is awesome to now have a chance to get to know them both and work with them.

Both night watches (from 7 - 11pm) that we have had began with some rain, and then had us striking the fore topsail in the dark - always a challenge as people are still learning. I have been learning new skills with the radar, which is great. Dolphins played in the water off our port side during class today. We had been on a starboard tack until this morning when A watch gybed to a port tack. We are sailing under the 4 lowers and fore topsail, light winds from the South West. It is a beautiful, calm, sunny day. One of the days that make one love being at sea. My head is slowly clearing, and I am convinced I will feel better tomorrow. As we near Charleston and the majority of the crew prepare to leave the ship I pause for a moment, trying
to appreciate where we are and where we have come as a group.

Comments (1)Add Comment
...
written by Mom, May 10, 2008
Joy, Hi-
Sorry to hear you were sick. Finally had a chance to read all of your blog. Sorry I wasn't able to do it as you wrote it. I know it must be bitersweet as your journey is coming to an end. You're signed up for the Ta Chi Fest! Something to look forward to in June.
Love you

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