The Order of Christ, Knights Templar, Prince Henry the Navigator, 13^th Century Synagogues, water powered industry, all part of the story of the little town of Tomar; nestled in the hills about a hour and a half’s drive northeast of Cascais.Travel by plush Motor coach was a far cry from my school days of field trips aboard the ubiquitous yellow “Truck Busses”.  The students were still a bit sleepy as they shared earphone between two on a single I Pod. Some dozed but my eyes were glued to the beaches, forts and lighthouses that lined the shoreline road as we traveled eastward toward Lisbon. The low morning sun on the smooth waters of the river mouth shimmered as we crawled through the early commuter traffic of scooters, motorcycles, autos and the ‘cute” little two passenger Smart cars.Just before we reached the city limits we veered off to the left and North on to the Expressway; shades of the Jersey Turnpike. Eight lanes, toll booths, EZ passes, and madmen burning up the passing lane at speeds that would make a Connecticut State Trooper drool at the size to the ticket he could write for the speed they were doing.

The countryside was rather bland with the occasional vineyard and power generating giant windmills grinding out watts from the wind that blew across the open fields that stretched from hill to hill. Then came the off ramp that said: TOMAR and the terrain started to rise and fall with greater regularity. We passed through small-populated areas with narrow roads that our huge land-ship seemed to completely fill. Unfazed by our size, vehicles coming in the opposite direction whizzed by with barely a tire on the edge of the shoulder-less roadway. Soon we were in Tomar and saw in the distance the high ground where our tour was to take place. The castle dominated the landscape and was visible from everywhere in the town, perched like an Osprey in its commanding nest. Home of the Knights Templar and later the Order of Christ, but most importantly the home of Prince Henry the Navigator.

To reach the summit we were treated to the skill of our driver as he negotiated seemingly impossible turns and cut backs with a panache that would make world class Rally drivers pale by comparison. On arrival we were met by a host of staff members of the museum and the Director herself. She would conduct a tour of this amazing site personally. Her English was accented but clear in content and descriptive detail. Sometimes her word usage brought a smile to the faces of those among us (the older folks), as we understood the early American TV references she made. I will refer you to the students and Dr. Williams for the historical details and will focus on the visceral experience of standing on ground trod by those I read about in school and marveled at when learning about the Crusades, the pilgrims to the Holy land and the role played by the Knights Templar. I was in awe just being here in this place.  I can understand now the mythic aura that surrounds their exploits to this day.

One thing that struck me was the fact that the home of Henry the Navigator was inside the castle walls. The castle was built over a ten-year period that I was told was a quick build in the day. The building continued as the KnightsTemplar fell out of favor and the Order of Christ became the defenders of the Faith. The chapel and cloisters followed to produce a huge complex of rooms balconies and living spaces as well as tombs.

The engineering that it took  to build this place is phenomenal even by today’s standards and to think that it was done over 800 years ago. The incredible stonework, tile inlays, curved spiral staircases of marble that are self-supporting.

Our morning quickly flew into early afternoon.  After lunch at a cozy local restaurant we started our walking tour of the city itself.  We walked along canals built by Henry’s minions to harness to waterpower of the local river to operate mills and other enterprises he controlled.

Through the main streets of the city we were always in view of the castle on the hill. Up a narrow cobble stone street we arrived at the 13th century synagogue of the Jewish community that managed to survive the many Inquisitions.  Filled with architectural allusions to the Faith such as twelve domes in the ceiling and the four columns in the center of the room where the Torah was housed. The building is now a museum with memorabilia from all over the world left and sent by visitors. As I left and touched the Mezuzah on the doorpost I looked to my left and there it stood, the all-seeing castle of the Templars, it’s shadow looming over the city. What tales of the times these two buildings could tell.

Our last stop was the church where the Templars prayed before departing on their missions; this was the “Mother” church of the order and everywhere they built a church it was identical to this one. Through out the day the student were feverously taking notes of everything out guides and interpreters said. Footsore and weary we boarded our chariot of comfort for the return to Cascais. The wheels hardly turned before heads drooped and eyelids closed as we headed into the setting sun back  to our seaside home in Marhina de Cascais. After a stop at our favorite Pizza restaurant, the walk back past the fort to the marina was a last parade to our waiting bunks.

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